A deep-fried delight that sings of the seaside – serve up and let everyone dig in. So whose version gets it just right? Fritto misto (the term for “mixed fry” sounds so much better in Italian, somehow) is, in the words of Katie Caldesi, “an assortment of deep-fried vegetables, fish or meats all bite-size, intended to be eaten with fingers and a wedge of lemon”. And she should know, because she loves the stuff so much that she served fritto misto at her wedding to chef Giancarlo. It’s pure crisp, relaxed holiday pleasure – a simple crowdpleaser that everyone can dig into together, with, as Caldesi observes, a winning element of surprise: “You don’t know what is hidden beneath the batter until you’ve bitten into it.”On that note, and because my memories of the dish involve rustling salty piles washed down with well-chilled carafes of vino della casa at seaside restaurants, I always think of the fishy version (properly fritto misto di mare), but I’ve given suggestions below for a veget...