Much has changed in the food world but there are a few truths that still holdI have been writing this column for 15 years. That means there have been 180 of them, filled with wisdom, insight, whimsy, prejudice, contradiction and sometimes just outrageous stupidity, all of it interrogating the way we cook and eat now. As this is my last of these columns I thought, as a service, I should summarise the key points. Are you ready? Good. Let’s go.Individual foods are not pharmaceuticals; just eat a balanced diet. There is nothing you can eat or drink that will detoxify you; that’s what your liver and kidneys are for. No healthy person needs to wear a glucose spike monitor; it’s a fad indulged by the worried well. As is the cobblers of being interested in “wellness”, because nobody is interested in “illness”. People have morals but food doesn’t, so don’t describe dishes as “dirty”. And stop it with the whole “clean eating” thing. It’s annoying and vacuous. Continue read...
Jay Rayner's final Observer Food Monthly (OFM) column reflects on 15 years of writing, offering insights into food culture. He advises against viewing individual foods as medicines, emphasizing a balanced diet. He debunks detox claims, calling them unnecessary, and criticizes trends like glucose monitors and wellness obsessions. Rayner dismisses the concept of "clean eating" as vacuous, advocating for enjoying food without guilt. He highlights the importance of fat and salt for flavor and the value of brown, messy foods. He criticizes buffets and the trend of expensive status foods, while praising bacon and homemade bechamel. Rayner suggests practical advice for restaurants, such as employing older staff for menu checks and avoiding overly conceptual menus. He advocates for abolishing tipping, ensuring fair wages for staff. Rayner also emphasizes the joy of eating alone, the presence of good food in unexpected places, and the importance of gravy stains as